Day 1 San Pedro de Atacama to Laguna Negra
We had been thrilled to have caught a lift the previous day all 2000m up to Hito Cajon before dramatically and without warning Hazel's Thudbuster Saddle clamping snapped. None of my spare bolts were long enough to bridge the huge clamp and we could not unthread the stuck bolt from its nut despite much cutting of slots and multiple pliers (thanks to our belgian cycle touring friends who turned up at this point). We were disappointingly forced to lash the saddle together and descend back again to San pedro de atacama. We initially found a double ended bolt that made a reasonable fix but the complex machining of the ends in which it sat combined with its bulk made it a dubious interface and we were hesitant to rely on it for another trip to the hills. The original bolt/nut component was too specialised to replace without finding a skilled machinist.
The bicycle mechanics at Ruta Atacama were very helpful for figuring this out. Eventually, in consideration of some other concerns we had had with the thudbuster system with lateral play in the pivots, we decided to sell it to another bikeshop to be repaired properly and swap for a plain simple seatpost instead for this trip.The kind and helpful mechanic at BBikes had the right seatpost diameter that we needed and various other parts we decided would be prudent to stock up on after this reminder. We had a big lunch of lasagne and salads at the cheap but excellent value restaurant opposite the bus terminal before attempting a hitch-hike back up the hill. Naturally the afternoon traffic to the border was slim and generally not interested.
This necessitated a repeat visit to the exemplary Franchuteria bakery for a big sourdough baguette and pesto to ensure we were well fuelled for what looked like a tricky escape ahead.
We decided staying in San pedro was becoming very expensive despite now camping at the brilliant and simple 6000peso pp Casa del sol Naciente and eating at the excellent value 6000peso menu del dia stalls by the stadium. So we asked around almost every tour agency in town if there were spare seats, empty vans, return trips where we could get a lift. No luck. The bus terminal also proved fruitless with reportedly no ability to stop the bus (Andesmar or pullman) before Purmamarca and general reluctance around bicycles.
Eventually in the late evening we managed to arrange a lift for the steep, but now cost effective, total price of 60,000pesos. Marcello of Cicles Atacama reportedly often takes cyclists up the hill and can take three people/ three bikes in his ute. He was happy for me to share his number for other cyclists keen on this service. +56976866875
We were picked up at 0630, spent a while tying bikes on and reached Hito Cajon by 0800 from memory. The undulating and slowly climbing summit road was stunning and easy going on smooth asphalt. We made good time and reached the mirador Quepiaco by 11 for an early lunch of the delicious pesto and parmesan from San Pedro.
The scenery compelled us to stop and take photos often through here with ludicrously idyllic scenes of Vicunas lapping from the mountain streams.
The gentle steady climb to 4800m was straightforward but we felt the altitude again at the summit after our 5 days out of the Puna.
Summit at 1300. Stopped for a second lunch on the way down the marvellous smooth asphalt descent to 4100m. The roads are mostly straight after the initial squiggles and we soared at 40- 60kph down into the expansive desert basin of Salar de Tara, fringed by colourful mineral sloped volcanoes, rock pillars and a foreboding thunderous sky.
We pulled into the iOverlander campsite at the south end of Laguna Negra at 1645. The numerous tyre trails showed this was a popular cyclists stop and for clear reason. The few small basins provided very good wind protection and complete privacy from the road whilst retaining a view of the skyline peaks above. The pumice and sand made for dubious tent anchors but it was no problem overnight despite significant wind out in the open.
A layer of clouds made for a relatively warm night for this altitude.
A strange toad woke us in the night, clattering about the tent vestibule.
Day 2 Laguna Negra to Laguna Ana via Pasa Jama
Left at 0800. Easy riding on smooth asphalt undulating to Laguna Quisquiro then a steady very gentle climb to above Paso Jama and an easy straight descent to the border. Border marker at 11.15 Spent a while at customs down in Jama, perhaps 1.5hrs. First you are given a ticket like a bingo card from a border guard as you enter Jama, you take this to the next booth where you collect your first stamp and the person checks your passport and asks if you had a covid vaccine (no proof required). Then you are directed to an entrance on the south side of the main building where you leave your bikes with another border guard at a barrier arm whilst you go I side to windows 1,2,3,4. Each windows is either chilean or argentinian customs or immigration police. They take the barcode visa receipt and bicycle details form. you received on entering Chile. They each stamp your bingo card. No passport stamp for Argentina as it is digitised now. No bike details needed. A bizarre xray check of whatever valuables you happened to take off the bike outside then you're done. You show the bingo card (should now have all but 2 stamps done) to barrier arm guard who lets you proceed to another GNA officer at a barrier who takes the completed bingo card and let's you into Jama itself. Petrol station immediately after has wifi, pastries, coffee, snacks. We spent a while there talking with a Jeep guide on his long monthly commute back from San Pedro de Atacama to see his family in Formosa. He told us about his ambitions to travel to South Africa and train to be a safari guide next. We also met a German/Brazilian motorcyclist there whose brother had just crashed on this mornings ride and been taken to hospital with unknown injuries. The petrol station seemed to be the social hub of the small town.
A despensa down the first street past the petrol station is reasonably well stocked with pasta, rice, noodles, potato flakes, tinned veges, olives, tinned meats/fish, tomato paste, soft cheeses, butter, vegetables (these were very old), fresh bread, usual biscuits and crackers. Apparently the petrol station can exchange USD for Argentinian Pesos but we did not need to.
Bear in mind that foreigners cannot use Personal brand SIM cards and must get a Claro SIM, requiring showing a passport at a Claro service centre- we had to go to Salta. I bought a useless Personal SIM here not knowing this.
We left at 1500 and made excellent time south to Laguna Ana on mostly flat roads with a strong prevailing tailwind. We reached the Laguna and hidden campsite above (on iOverlander) at 1615. We decided to stay here due to mention of the next possible informal option at the tourist information centre being exposed to what was now a very strong wind.
Good shelter In a dugout area on the southern side of the clear area. Could be prone to waterlog if raining however. No other wind shelter at this spot, derelict bus wreck is too broken up to make any shelter.
Day 3 Laguna Ana to Agua del Cerro Negro
Left camp at 0800
Easy fast asphalt to Salar de Olaroz. Stopped in at 'tourist information centre's we had heard they made basic meals. Had coffee and simple bread/jam as they hadn't cooked anything more elaborate yet that day. Simple tienda there also with basic carbs (Oats, pasta, potatoes, rice) and tinned goods. Interesting home Charque outside (meat hanging on the clothesline).
Easy asphalt continued across plains and started gentle climb. Scenery became much more interesting as the road climbed up through into a rocky canyon pass before the view opened up and we descended into a huge vista of low sprawling innumerable tortuous rocky rifts and small peaks with small streams starting to appear feeding green meadows. We reached Susques at about 1330, got some more supplies from the two tiendas on the right on the main street shortly after the hospital. No restaurant found open but a few old faded signs and locked doors. Left at 1500.
Climb out of Susques is steep but short before a pleasant undulating crossing of a broken-up range of rocky spurs. This descended into a spectacular canyon of grand theatrical scale. We flew down here and out onto the plains with a tailwind pushing us along to the comedor marked on iOverlander that we had eyed up for dinner and a campsite. Arrived 1815.
The friendly young family ther welcomed us in and gave tea and bread before a big serving of Milanesa Vaca and rice for cheap. There is a small tienda here also with the usual carbs, tinned meats/vege plus cheese and salami but I am dubious that the latter have been refrigerated at all. Kindly offered a sheltered campsite on the south of the small building.
Day 4 Agua del Cerro Negro/Comedor Runa Cachi To Purmamarca
Left cerro negro 07.15, passed small shop and gas station shortly after near Santuario de Tres Pozos which had water, bano, snacks,restaurant and accomodation. Friendly couple. IOverlander only reflects the gas station.
Continued on fast asphalt but across rather boring flat prairie. Locals were collecting roadside rubbish and making big fires so there were big plumes of black rubber and plastic smoke along the roadside. An environmentally questionable community effort.
Passed Salinas grandes, quite ugly compared to Uyuni given this one had extensive mining operations right to the roadside and into the distance. A few odd tourist stands selling salt objects. Continued on promptly and road subtly began to climb. A moderate flow of traffic but all very considerate and not an issue. No shoulder but almost always a wide gravel verge if needed for passing traffic. We travelled on a Saturday and may have had a busy weekend level of traffic, unsure.
1045 we arrived at the restaurant at saladillos. They are a welcome oasis serving delicious but small empanadas (800pesos), humitas, tamales, salads, milanesa, alfajores, hot and cold drinks, all at prices reasonable for the location. Left at 11.30
From here the road steadily climbs up through stunningly colourful rocky canyons and valleys before you are confronted with a view of a stack of switchbacks up the face of the head of the valley ahead of you which is quite disheartening. Seeing the volume of traffic winding up the hill ahead was also quite unpleasant but in reality the gradient is gentle for the most part and the climb is not that high. We reached the summit in good time around 1330. Cooked up some noodles for lunch on the sheltered side before beginning the tremendous 2000m descent through spectacular huge valleys and canyons of shattered rock in crumbling coloured spires dotted with huge triffid-like cacti. The fast, smooth asphalt winds down through huge cuttings to maintain its graceful swooping curves through what is an otherwise steep and chaotic mountainside.
Near the base of the valley oases of vibrant green foliage erupt from small farms in a peculiar way. Mesquite and willow trees amongst garishly bright cultivated rows of vegetable greens (too far away to identify).
All this surrounded by arid desert scape makes for an extraordinary spectacle. This huge 2000m descent must be one of the most spectacular of its kind on earth and yet it seems to hardly be mentioned on blogs or route descriptions.
Small settlements appear before the cheerful but touristy town of Purmamarca. Arrived at 1645 . The adobe village streets and houses are neatly surrounded by psychedelic colourful crunbling rock faces. We stayed at Luna Garcia campsite, a charming large garden setting with a handful of tentsites dotted around. Good hot showers, moderate wifi in a certain area, banos and a simple indoor cooking area. For 5000pesos total for two it seemed reasonable value in a rather expensive town. The other campers and host were all lovely and the whole place has a very relaxing feeling to it. It is only 1k walk to the town where we found absolutely extraordinary pizza, unanimously decided to be in the top 5 pizzas if not #1pizza we have ever had at Ci Vediamo. The price was not cheap but was very reasonable for a queso de cabras/sundried tom. and a pesto/prosciutto/walnut pizza cooked by a lovely young couple in a real Woodfired oven right there where you sit (it was rather hot) Grande was for once big enough for a cycletourer! I couldn't reccomend this place highly enough and the extraordinary reviews on google and ioverlander agree.
Day 5 Purmamarca to Yala
We decided to have a quiet day to first sort out some plans for Salta (bike suspension service mainly) and the next few days route choices.
The Panaderia on Pantaleon Cruz had plenty of delicious pastries to keep us pleasantly stocked for the gentle cycle, again not cheap but pretty delicious classic Argentinian sweet treats. Left at 11am. We coasted down the mostly downhill 60k to Yala having a few snack stops but otherwise it only took about 3hrs. The traffic on the Ruta 9 unfortunately (albeit Sunday) was not great. We had numerous close overtakes and a generally high volume of fast cars. We reached Yala Refugio campground and found half of Jujuy also there barbecuing, sitting about and music blasting. It felt like a Christmas holiday beachside campground back in New Zealand. We initially recoiled at the sheer noise and bustle of the place but we were reassured by some others that at 8pm everyone would take off back home for the weekend and the campsite would become a tranquil place again. 2000pesos pp to camp. Wifi after 8pm. Cooking area. Power sockets freely available. A nice parkland setting with plenty of shelter trees.
Unfortunately the delay on wifi meant we couldn't make the most of the short day to do any further trip planning as we also can't use our sim cards without visiting an agent to verify our passport in a large centre.
As predicted, by 8pm the whole place cleared out leaving a small scattering of campers amongst the trees.
Day 6 Yala to La Caldera
We had our first rain in weeks overnight which cooled the place down wonderfully. It had been in the low to mid 30s for several days at this lower level and we had heard reports from several sources of temperatures in the 40s nearby. Thankfully the day had dawned cool. We left at 7.30 and quickly found a road immediately parallel to the motorway that followed almost all the way in Jujuy excluding a brief detour across an older bridge then it switched onto the north of the motorway before slowly winding into quiet and pleasant suburbs. We stopped for pastries and coffee in Jujuy more out of opportunity than necessity before winding through the western suburbs, across a small footbridge and past the concerningly large CocaCola distribution facility to take the route to La Almona out of town. This was based on route notes we read from EatBikeGlobe.com which suggested this large rural detour to avoid the traffic. We were glad we did as this was a very pleasant rural detour with a gentle climb but generally very pleasant cycling. It passed by two stunning looking paid campsites at Los Panos which would make an excellent stop for those doing a bigger day from Purmamarca. They had a charming rural garden setting with lovely wooden outdoor cooking areas and benches. There were a few despensas scattered near Los Panos. Descending to San Antonio was a fast straight line and brought us into one the prettier towns we had seen in South America. Bougainvillea, hibiscus, jacarandas, willow trees lined charming streets bringing a classical vibrancy to the adobe buildings. We picked up some veges and quesillo for lunch further on as it was only just 12. We flew down to El Carmen past more colourful trees and the start of large fields of various vegetables including some I didn't recognise. El Carmen we barely saw but it seems a pleasant town. A cycle trail took us out of town to the first lake. There an enormous picnic area with staggering numbers of hundreds of barbecues reflected the favourite Argentinian cooking style and the world's largest consumer per capita of red meat.
We didn't find a great lunch spot as the lake is more of a dirty reservoir with difficult shore access. Either way we had our delicious quesillo, tomato, walnut bread picnic and got started on the next climb about 2. The climb is very gradual and winds initially through dry hillsides of parched stark trees before becoming lush with tall epiphyte clad trees all around forming picturesque avenues over the very narrow but well maintained road. We saw hardly any traffic, being a Monday, but trucks and buses also do not take this road.
We reached the highest point at around 4.30 and after an easy descent, small hill, traverse, reached La Caldera. This is another pleasant wee town with several tiendas, a few small restaurants and several camping areas. We stayed at Quitilipi which is a simple parkland picnic area/campground for 1700pesos for two of us (calculated by a needlessly complex schedule of prices per person and to have a tent). No wifi or power that we could find naturally (maybe at the cabins?) But good simple toilets and cooking/washing up areas out in the open. We were offered hot showers by the camp host who arrived as usual at approx 6.30pm but they would have to be in the morning apparently at 8am so we declined.
Day 7 La Caldera to Salta
A short ride today into town to allow getting the bike into the bike shop in time.
We had a lovely cycle down the short remainder of the valley on RN9 with minimal traffic until Vaqueros. We stopped at the southern end of Vaqueros just before the main bridge, at a panaderia for coffee and pastries. After that there is an excellent cycle path all the way until it suddenly stops at ave. Martina Silva De Gurruchaga. This is most of the way into the central city so we just wound our way down the grid of avenues from there with the usual tight inner city traffic but no major issues.
We chose to stay at Trotamundos Hostel based on good ioverlander reviews and proximity to a good bikeshop.
The hostel was small and friendly with a lovely courtyard for the bikes with a small garden/hammock area to rest up.
It seemed a similar price to other options (15,000 pesos for 2 in a 4bed shared for 2 nights). Unfortunately the shower wasn't working for a day and then was cold only as the hot water cylinder had broken.
We took my bike to DOR sport house for a front suspension service and had fantastic service from a very kind and thorough mechanic. He was very knowledgeable about touring routes as well. The price was incredibly cheap (14,000pesos) compared to NZ for such stellar service but perhaps this is in line with local prices.
This was a nice part of town with easy walking into the main square, cafes, supermarkets etc.
Despite the number of panaderias, finding real bread was a challenge.
However we found it at San Blas Pan Artesano and were blown away with not only beautiful sourdough but delicious pastries of all sorts far beyond the basic offerings of most places.
Day 8 Salta to La Vina
We had to get out more pesos, which is not easy in Argentina. Here you have numerous exchange rates legal and less so to learn about and interpret, as well as rampant devaluation and low denomination bills requiring huge thick wads of cash for small purchases, a general distrust of card payments and banks, ATMs with huge queues that run out of cash rapidly and seem to hop between exchange rates resulting in paying out as much as 2.5x as much for the same foreign dollar. The western union approach, which promises a legitimate way to the blue dollar exchange rate, had not yet worked for us due to VPN issues and ide tiny document issues. Anyway, it turns out currently ATMs were dispensing at the tourist rate which is very close to the optimal blue dollar. So thankfully we finally had access to cash, which had never been an issue before Argentina. By the time we sorted this it was 9.30 and we navigated slowly out of the centre of town through dense traffic to the cycleway on the Av Monsenor Tavella and then the Av Gaucho Mendez and Av CV Suroeste. This route was OK. Traffic was tight and the cycleways ambiguous and discontinuous at times but latterly good. We reached Cerrillos at 10.45, stocked up at the moderate supermarket there and various grocers, had some delicious fruit tarts and coffee at the panaderia divino nino jesus and then headed out on the route 49, our choice for a bit more quiet rural roads. This turned out to be a beautifully quiet but rather slow gravel road. It was later in the day than hoped so we followed it to Rosario de legal through idyllic countryside before taking the fast asphalt 36 back to the highway to make up our time to reach La Vina by evening. The traffic along the 68 to El Carril was unpleasant. Frequent trucks and no shoulder aside from the ever present rough gravel verge. By El Carril at 1400 we had some late lunch (large baguette from San Blas promptly disappeared). We put our heads down and flew along the fast road to La Vina with the traffic dropping off significantly after El Carril and Coronel Moldes and the countryside becoming even more beautiful in a quaint rural sort of way. Old mansions of a far wealthier Argentina, and architecturally presumably from times of Italian settlement stood dishevelled and crumbling with bougainvillea and vines sprawling over them.
We reached La Vina at 6. We headed straight to the complejo municipal to camp and found it peaceful and quiet. This didn't last long with numerous football games and a celebratory BBQ party until late to build some noise but there was so much space it didn't matter too much and we could tuck away. Basic toilets. Running water. Cooking shelters. 1000peso for 2 people in a tent. Friendly campsite caretaker came by around 7pm to pay.
Day 9 La Vina to Cafayate
We accidentally slept ion today unfortunately against our plans to get out ahead of the heat when the forecasts stated 35'C and friends had warned this was usually an underestimate. We were cycling away at 8. Easy rapid travel on smooth asphalt and small undulating hills through more quaint countryside of vineyards, adobe houses and small settlements with a few tiendas about. Alemania reached by 9.15. Had a coffee and some expensive pastries and a few snacks picked up from the tienda (some vegetables and fruit here).
The heat was already intense at 10am with the temperature almost at 30 but using ultralight merino and a long sleeve linen shirt I had good sun protection yet well ventilated and cooling coverage.
The scenery really became spectacular from here. Rusty red cliffs of complex crumbling fractured strata began to rise around us as we wound a smooth course through the valley. By Parador Las Abritas the wind started to rise. Coming from all directions in oven-door gusts we started to really feel the heat in the mid 30s. The gusts carried dusts down the valley which came around our glasses into our eyes, although we are using rather generic cheap sunglasses currently and may benefit from proper cycling sunglasses in the future.
We stopped for a cold drink at Puente Morales but they only had huge bottles of Sprite, Fanta or Coca Cola.
Lunch by the roadside at the halfway point from La Vina. Gusts of wind made our tomatoes rather sandy.
Even in the shade it was sweltering with the wind feeling somehow hotter than the still air.
We continued past Garganta del Diablo but it was crowded with tourists and cheap stalls selling tacky souvenirs. One of the stall owners was playing on a panflute in a rather amelodic and dischordant way that added to the touristification which spoilt the otherwise interesting spot.
The surrounding gorge was spectacular enough that we didn't find these few tourist spots particularly outstanding by comparison anyway. We stopped in at a small shop at Santa Barbara only to encounter the same only litre bottles of fizzy drinks. Unfortunately the recently seen tourist stall owners had obviously packed up for the week and come straight here for beers. Remarkably within minutes they were already drunk enough to be unpleasant so we moved on.
The chickens and dogs by the roadside were stupefied by the heat and sat panting in the partial shade.
More gusts and sudden mini sandstorms buffeted us up the valley but the scenery continued to evolve and morph in fantastic dramatic combinations.
A kind couple from Germany pulled over and offered us water. Luckily we had brought enough (we used 4L each today) but we were touched by their generosity. This was the first time anyone had offered us food or water in two months cycling in South America. I have heard people speak of encountering this more often than us, but all I can say is it does seem to be a rare thing.
The final straight roads into Cafayate dragged out as we felt thoroughly sun-baked and were now becoming dehydrated. The wind had become a stable headwind.
Despite this the cactus and dry scrub plains became idyllic ancient vineyards and eventually beautiful avenues.
Cafayate was a beautiful oasis at the end of the road. Avenues into the plaza passed bodegas, cafes, restaurants brimming with the beautiful wines, cheeses, vegetables, meats, breads, condiments and preserves of the region.
We immediately found a huge beautiful fresh orange juice and chilled out in the stunning tranquil garden of Hostel de lo Chichi.
This Hostel I can highly recommend. It is has the nicest atmosphere of a backpackers hostel that I have ever stayed at. Built alongside a sprawling garden with numerous tables under dappled shade of grapevines and trellises, this central oasis provides a welcome relaxed base to spend a few days eating, resting, repairing, planning and heading out into the Cafayate region. We had always known we would reach here and have a big decision about how much time we had available for the routes south. The weather here was now consistently mid 30s throughout the day with strong hot winds in the valleys. The landscape south of here was similar or more plain than what we had just spent weeks traversing. We would need a month of this to reach the start of the lush countryside around Araucania or Neuquen and we were running out of months. With Christmas advertising starting we became aware of the rapidly approaching 2024 and our wedding deadline of mid April, necessitating a return to NZ in mid March, barely three and a bit months away. With the living expenses in Patagonia supposed to be much higher we also weren't sure how much to budget ahead to allow as much time there as we wished.
After extensive research we eventually figured out the cheapest, most efficient (for time and carbon emissions) plan to head south was to bus to Tucuman and catch the next days 26hr bus to Neuquen. Our bicycles could not be guaranteed carriage and would have to be boxed anyway. Many other cyclists had ended up stranded at sattions and losing tickets due to this. Alternatively we could ship them both to Neuquen with the associated cargo service (Busbox) for only 11,000 Pesos (25NZD). Luckily we found boxes at the nearby bike shop and could get them packaged that day to start their slow freight south. And so we finished up our northern journey and made our way across the dry pampas to the mountains of the south. Hopefully heading into a climate more suited to our kiwi polar physiologies.
